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The following notes were compiled by me from various sources. Some of this
information really belongs somewhere in the main portion of
MarxTinplateTrains.com but I
haven't had the time yet to do it up properly...
Timeline of Marx Cars, derived from the archived remains of Jason Moss's TinplateMarxists:
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Joy Line: Louis Marx and Co. got started in the toy train business in 1929 when Marx entered into
an agreement with the Girard Model works as the exclusive sellers of Girard's "Joy Line"
electric trains. This arrangement continued until 1934 when the Girard Model Works went
bankrupt. Marx bought the company, and reorganized it in 1935, and ceased production of
the Joy Line.
6" Tin: To replace the Joy Line, Marx produced a line of six inch, four wheel cars. These cars
were produced in one form or another from 1936 until 1972. Around the same time, Marx
offered six inch, eight wheel cars. The couplers were expensive and problematic, and the
cars didn't re-appear after the war.
3/16" Tin and the Plastic Cars: The 3/16" cars were introduced for the 1942 Christmas season, but disappeared because of
the war. They returned after the war but were displaced in the 1950's by plastic cars in
the four wheel and eight wheel variety. The plastic cars appeared in both four wheel and
eight wheel varieties. They stayed in production through the 1970's.
7" Tin: The tin seven inch cars were introduced in the 1950s. This line was produced to counter a
threat from Unique Art, another manufacturer of toys. The seven inch line lasted about
ten years, and included the "Mickey Mouse Set" and the "Old Time Set." With the switch to
plastic, and Unique Art's demise, the seven inch line was discontinued.
Identifying 6" Tin Car Frames, courtesy of Walt Hiteshew:
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In 1935 Marx introduced the six inch trains. The cars rode on a black frame with
silver lithographed details. The frame had a short wheel base and two journals at
each wheel. There was no coupler pocket.
In late 1935 or 1936 the early frame tooling was modified to produce the frame
(with round ends and no coupler pocket). The reworked frame was used on the early
six inch trains and was carried over to later production. When you find early six
inch Marx on all black frames, that is the frame you have. In 1937 or so, Marx
retooled the frame completely to produce the common, square end frame that was
used until the end of tin production.
For some reason, Marx continued to use the round end frame for wedge tenders.
Besides the 551 rivet tender, 552 yellow tank car, 553 red gondola, 555 yellow
reefer, 1678 hopper, 694 caboose, and 245-246 coaches, the round end frame was
used for the 550 wrecker and the 559 floodlight car. It is remotely possible that
the lumber car first appeared on these frames although I have yet to see one.
Occasionally the round end frame can be found on later production cars. It appears
there was some quantity of the frames around when Marx began the four color series
of lithographed cars. I have seen some sets where the later bodies were on the
earlier frames but they are rare.
(More complete information and photos can be found on Walt Hiteshew's
"The Definitive Guide to Marx Trains: Six-Inch Tin & Joy Line" CD, available at
Toy & Train Publishing Co.)
Identifying Early 6" Tin, courtesy of Ray Ellen of Vienna Station:
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The "two color lithograph" freights phased out pretty much by 1937. Most of
these cars are found on rounded end, riveted tab and slot coupler frames.
Most of the 1937 material had frames punched for the four holes needed for
wrecker cars that had track clips installed. 1934-35 were silver and black
lithographed frames with Joy Line Couplers and 1936 had the same frames but
with riveted tab and slot couplers. I have seen some two-color cars with
square end black frames, but all of those are for wind-up trains with sliding
tab and slot couplers. Beginning in 1938, all of the two color cars were
phased out and three or more colors were used to produce the rolling stock.
In other words, more passes through the lithograph press, one for each color.
Versions of the #552 Gondola, courtesy of Walt Hiteshew:
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The 552 first appeared about 1935 in the red with black lettering on a silver litho
frame. In 1936 the same litho was used but the frame was changed to the all black
round end frame. Next it appeared on the square end frame (probably 1938).
The green and red litho appeared about this same time and there are several different
litho patterns, including the fully riveted version, no rivet litho, horizontal rivets
only and vertical rivets only. This litho was also run with the black trim. There is
also a blue and green version which has several distinct shades as well. All of the
second series can be found on square end frames in black, silver (tinplated) and red
and white litho. Eight wheel versions can also be found on either black or red frames.
Now, for the four wheel black frames you can have tab and slot couplers (riveted),
twisted sliding, punched sliding or plastic knuckle couplers. The tinplated frames are
twisted sliding tab and slot while the red and white litho frames are riveted tab and
slot. The wheels on these can be either pressed steel tinned or black, die cast or plastic.
The eight wheel frames can have tab and slot couplers or automatic (one way) couplers
either pressed steel or diecast. The wheels can be either tinned or black.
Of course all of these could have any of the litho patterns, so, as you can see, there
are many , many possible variations already!
The 552G Grocery and Sundries car can be found on the four wheel black frame and
probably on the tinplated frame as well as the eight wheel black frame. Many of the
above subtleties would apply.
The 548 Guernsey Milk car is also part of the series as it, too, is a CRI&P gondola.
It can be found in blue with yellow trim or blue with green trim. Available on the
black square end frame, red and white litho frame, probably the tinplated frame and
black eight wheel frame. Again the subtle variations apply.
I forgot to mention that the earlier bodies had cut ends which were sharp. Not too
long into production the body tooling was altered to add a flap to the end which was
turned over eliminating the sharp edge.
If you are interested in the 552 you have to include the 91257 Seaboard gondola which
can be found in red, brown, blue or light blue. These are from sets of later production
and are on four wheel, square end black frames with either sliding tab and slot or
plastic knuckle couplers and steel or plastic wheels (did I mention that the plastic
wheels can be either black or brown!).
The 241708 B&O gondola is also a 552 lithographed in yellow with either red, grey or
charcoal (black) interior. These would be subject to the same variations as the Seaboard
gondolas.
With all the possible variations I'll bet there are upward of 100 distinct variations of
the lowly little 552 gondola.
(More complete information and photos can be found on Walt Hiteshew's
"The Definitive Guide to Marx Trains: Six-Inch Tin & Joy Line" CD, available at
Toy & Train Publishing Co.)
Tab-and-Slot Couplers, courtesy of Walt Hiteshew:
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The riveted tab and slot coupler first appears in 1936 on the round end frame
(modified silver litho frame). In 1938 Marx put out the sliding tab and slot
coupler in the square end frame. First came the twisted version. Sometime later
the punched dimple sliding tab and slot coupler starts to show up. This was
likely a result of tooling designed to speed up production. To my knowledge
there is no way to determine the date when the punching began since there is
no way to determine, from catalog pages, which sliding coupler is on a
particular car.
(More complete information and photos can be found on Walt Hiteshew's
"The Definitive Guide to Marx Trains: Six-Inch Tin & Joy Line" CD, available at
Toy & Train Publishing Co.)
Identifying Age of Locomotives:
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As a rule, prewar electric motors had the 10 spoke drivers and postwar motors had the
Baldwin type drivers. So if you have a postwar Commodore, it will have Baldwin drivers. (attribution lost)
The Baldwin drivers were introduced in 1948. The one piece pickup shoe predates the
Baldwin drivers by a short period. It appears the only electric engines made after the war
until 1948 were the 999 (spoked pilot versions/rivet pilot) and the black sideboard Jubilee.
The "Marlines" Jubilee has baldwins as do other engines that were introduced/reintroduced
(red 198, red Mercury, black CV, M10005) in 1948. (attribution lost)
How to Tell One-Way from Reversing Steam Locomotives, courtesy of Mike Nickerson
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The non-reversing steamer motor was a postwar cost cutting move.
They had shorter one-piece pickup shoes, a tad over 2" long i
nstead of the reversing ones, a tad over 3" long. But what do you
do on an eBay auction where the seller does not show a picture
of the underside?
Imagine you are facing a map, and an electric Marx steam
locomotive is headed westward (loco pointing to the left). What
do you see?
If a typical reversing steamer, you see the sparky (brushplate)
side, because the brushes are on the left.
If a one-way or William Crooks steamer, you see the gear side.
(William Crooks locomotives have the reversing mechanism 'e-unit'
at the rear of the locomotive, which is flipped from the typical
reversing steamer -- all the electric William Crooks steamers reverse.)
Clean Locomotives & Cars:
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Most of us would probably not recomend trying to remove the rust on
litho because it is almost impossible to touch up. Some lighter rust
will be removed with delicate cleaning. I do not recomend the following
for a piece of any value, but just for regular runners.
I usually disassemble the car and scrub the pieces (not the wheels)
with a very mild dish soap and a soft bristle toothbrush. I use cool
water. I have had warm water cause a cloudiness in the litho that never
went away. Keep an eye on the area you are scrubing to make sure no
litho is coming off. Next is wipe off as much water as possible then
blow it with air to get water from the nooks etc. The next step is to
use Maquires cleaner/wax. Between the washing and wax, some of the very
minor rust may come off. I use a wire wheel with soft brass bristles to
clean the wheels and axles. Care must be taken whenever you bend the
tabs. Time to re-assemble. I usually try to only use a couple of the
tabs when putting a car back together. That saves a few good tabs for
later if I ever have to clean or repair again. -- Steve Eastman
Polish black cast iron and plastic engines with "Scuff Coat" liquid shoe polish -- Harry Chavez, Sr.
Remove rust from wheels by soaking in "RustAid". -- Dave Farquhar
Forget alcohol for cleaning wheels on tin litho. Goo Gone or even WD-40 will do
the job without hurting the litho. Sometimes just a Scotch Brite pad will do the job. (attribution lost)
A good paint match for the red Mercury is Weekend Spray Paint 362 Cherry Red (Sherwin Williams) -- Walt Hiteshew
White Powder on Die-Cast:
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The white powder is either Zinc Oxide or Lead Oxide. This shows up when the
trains have been stored under moist conditions. The old white paint used lead
oxide for the pigment. The newer pigment is zinc oxide as a cheap white color.
Coating the metal should seal the metal. small quantities should not be
harmfull, but care should be taken if you use a wire wheel to clean the parts
and raise dust that you breath. -- Dick Desens
I've been using a product call klean-strip rust remover, it does a wonderful
job, and does not seem to hurt plastic, only takes a few minutes. It's a gel
so it stays somewhat put. and works on a viriate of metals, preparing them for
piant. that white corrosion, sounds like rust of an alloy, no worries,8oz is
only a few bucks @ the hardware store. it'll stop it. -- jeff (silverfox9605)
Several posts have been made concerning a white substance on die cast
locos.This is simply a mould release compound. No elaborate cleaning
with any type of chemical is required.Simply blow the area with a hair
dryer and it will disappear.Caution- a paint stripper heat gun can get
too hot, so just use the hair dryer. -- garrymarx
Remove Rust:
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I use EVAPO-RUST. No more rubber gloves, no more fumes, non-toxic environmentally safe. No more
sandblasting cabinets. Got mine at Auto-Zone for about $8.00 a 32 fl. oz. contaner. Use a gal.
anti-freez, lay on side and cut out top side to make a cleaning tray. When done pour back into container. -- beggsrail
Motor Won't Run?
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(Walt Hiteshew's The Definitive Guide to Marx Trains: Six-Inch Tin and Joy Line
CD contains an excellent illustrated guide to servicing Marx electric motors. The CD
is available from Toy and Train Publishing Co.)
Verify that no material is wrapped around the axle. Verify that the armature is
straight; loosen the nuts that hold the outer plate on the motor and re-align
the armature before re-tightening the nuts. Clean the reverser. -- Dave Farquhar
Make sure that the screw on the bottom brush plate is tight; this screw
provides electrical ground for the motor. -- Bryan Robbins
The finger contacts within the reversing-unit might need to re-bent. He also
suggests re-soldering the connections on the reversing-unit. -- Tom Cummings
Verify that the wires going to the reversing-unit aren't shorting. -- Rich Getty
Thanks to Graeme Eldred:
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The basic wiring of the AC motor is power runs to one side of the
coil, through the coil, from the other side of the coil straight
to one motor brush, through the motor and back out of the other
brush.
One would normally find that the centre rail collector powers one
side of the coil, and the second brush is 'earthed' to the chassis,
and therefore to the outer rails.
To bypass the reversing unit, use a length of wire with a crocodile
clip at each end. Clip one end to the coil (the side that isn't
connected to the centre rail pickup), and the other end to the brush
holder that isn't earthed to the chassis. The motor should then run,
irrespective of the reversing unit.
... the (idler) gears tend to be sloppy on the shafts and there is little
that can be done to correct this since there is not a ready supply of
replacements anyway. I have a 1998 switcher that was noisy and didn't run
the way I thought it should. I too suspected it was on account of the idler
gears being so loose. As it turned out the armature hole in the brush plate
was worn oversize and once I replaced the brush plate with another from my
spares box there was a dramatic improvement in operation. -- James McClenin
"A quick test for a worn brushplate bushing/hole is to put a drop of 30 weight
oil at the brushplate - armature shaft. Then run the engine. If the
howling/growling stops it indicates the brushplate bushing/hole is enlarged
and the brushplate needs to be replaced. The oil is not a fix, the howling
will start again in a few minutes when the oil thins and runs out of the hole." -- Lou Lauderbaugh
How to Clean Locomotive Motors, courtesy of Dave Farquhar
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... you mean there's a best way to clean motors? I've used several
methods, and the only one that ultimately did harm was when I used
WD-40. So ignore any advice you see about using WD-40--it will soak
into your brushes and ruin them, and then your motor won't run until
you get new brushes.
What I do is take the motor out of the locomotive, douse it with
contact cleaner, turn the wheels around to make sure the stuff moves
around in there, and then I clean any and all copper parts with cotton
swabs dipped either in more contact cleaner or rubbing alcohol,
depending on which one I have more of on hand at the time. If I'm
feeling really industrious, I'll pop the springs out, which hold the
brushes in place, and take the brushes out and clean inside the brush
holders too. You want to remember which brush was where and how it was
positioned. Then drop the brushes back into place the same way they
were, and pop the springs back in.
Let the motor drip dry. If you see a lot of crud running out, it never
hurts to spritz it down again. Make sure it dries thoroughly, then
lubricate it. Put some silicone grease on the gears and a light oil
(3-in-1, sewing machine oil, Labelle #107, or automotive 10w30 will
all work) on the axles, including the armature axle. If there's a felt
pad, put a couple of drops of oil on the pad. One drop of oil is
usually plenty.
At this point I'll hook the motor up to a transformer to make sure it
runs. Connect one wire to the pickup shoe and the other wire to the
copper tab that usually goes to the locomotive body. If the motor
runs, great. Now you can clean the wheels the lazy way. With the motor
running, put some alcohol or contact cleaner on a cotton swab and swab
down each wheel while it turns. Replace as necessary, and repeat until
the swabs don't get dirty anymore.
If the motor doesn't run, it could be a few different things. Make
sure the copper tabs inside the motor that are supposed to touch the
axles are making good contact. Make sure the solder joints are
reasonably bright and shiny and not broken. Make sure the screw at the
bottom of the motor is present. Those are the last three problems I
remember seeing that a good cleaning wouldn't fix.
Let it all dry again, let the motor run for at least 10 minutes in
both forward and reverse, then put the motor back in the locomotive
and give it a test run. Run it on a loop of track on the floor before
you run it on your table (if your layout is on a table). You want to
make sure the motor runs at a consistent speed before you take a
chance on it taking a tumble.
That's just one method. I've heard of others, but this one uses stuff
you probably have around the house already or will need anyway to fix
other problems.
How to Clean Reverser Units:
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When faced with a sticky Marx reverse unit I remove the motor from the body and spray the
reverse unit from every angle possible with LPS contact cleaner without lubricant. That
will usually clean it sufficiently to work. The only problem with any of the lubricants,
graphite or other, is the plunger is supposed to work dry and the lubricants seem to make
things even stickier in the long run. However, if the contact cleaner does not work,
anything that will work, even for awhile, is worth it. -- Barb Jones
I use a product called CRC QD Electronic Cleaner 05101. It comes in a little red can with
a black lid. It has a small WD-40 type straw for spraying into tight places. It is only
4.5oz, but seems to last quite a while. My local True Value Hardware has is for $3.29.
Simply spray it into the e-unit to remove any gum that might cause sticking. It is a good
idea to wait for the cleaner to evaporate before applying power, as an engine fire could
result! -- Dave Hess
Description of Locomotive Reverser, courtesy of Donald Huddleston:
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(The Marx locomotive reverser unit) is a solenoid-activated
switch. The coil of the solenoid is powered constantly as long as power is
applied to the locomotive pickup points and it pulls the core up to throw and
hold the rocker portion of the switch. The switch has 5 contact points that
switches 4 different inputs. The 4 inputs are:
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Headlight
Upper motor brush
One end of the stator winding
The other end of the stator winding
The headlight is tied to the center rail pickup.
Mechanically, the switch is made up of two copper alloy strips that rest on
top of a rocker assembly that has 3 contact points. One of the copper strips is
tied to the headlight and the other is tied to the upper motor brush. On the
rocker, the two outer contact points are both tied to one side of the stator
winding and the one in the center is tied to the other side. When the rocker is
thrown back and forth by the solenoid, it swaps the ends of the stator windings
between the headlight pickup and the upper motor brush.
If any of these contact points are dirty, oily or the copper strips are not
bent at the right angle to make good contact, the motor may not run. If the
solenoid sticks and does not throw the rocker assembly correctly, it will not
reverse correctly.
Build a Custom Smoking Locomotive:
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Instructions and photos of how Steve Eastman built a smoking 2-4-2 CV using a #666 motor
can be found in the "Smokin' CV 2-4-2" folder within the
Commodore Vanderilt
group on Yahoo Groups.
Instructions and photos of how Dave Hess built a smoking #999 using an American Flyer
chugging smoke unit mounted in a Marx tender can be found
here at the TCA.
"K-Line Smoke Assembly": Part number is K2630-EX001, has the heat chamber, stack and
is fan driven. Blows a pretty good stream. $15.00 plus S&H, total $22.00. It's fairly
small so it could go inside some locos, in the tender on others. You wouldn't have to
buy and disect AF units. -- Steve "Papa" Eastman
Retrofit an Electric Motor into a Wind-Up M-10000:
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Just about any reversing Marx motor can be retrofitted into the M-10000 with the use of Grossman's bracket #196. -- Rolland May
Painting Bulbs:
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I would strongly recommend you use DEKA transparent paint for glass. This German
product is available at craft stores. I have orange (amber), red, and green. You
dip the clear light bulbs into the paint. The result is an extraordinarily even,
transparent colored bulb that doesn't smoke when hot and looks just like the clear
colored bulbs I remember in my original Marx signals. -- Paul Wassermann
Marx Place Names:
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Girard and Erie, Pennsylvania, and Moundsville and Glen Dale, West Virginia,
were sites of Marx factories.
The station in Erie was called "Union Station" and the factories in Erie and Girard
were only minutes away. (Dave roccomarxho)
The factory in Moundsville, West Virginia, was actually in Glen Dale. (Charles Archbold)
Oak Park and Wheaton, Illinois, were rumored to be the home cities of
the Sears or Wards toy buyers when Marx was creating each of these stations. (Tasker Bush)
Montclare and Bogota, New Jersey were rumored to be the home cities of Woolworth's
toy buyers during the 1930s. (Tasker Bush)
Transformers for Running Marx Trains:
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Small Lionel transformers aren't adequate to run Marx trains. Lionel transformers provide
18-22vac at the rated wattage; Marx transformers of the same wattage rating provide 14-17vac
and, thus, are capable of sourcing more current. Lionel transformers rated at 90 watts or
higher will work. K-Line transformers provide voltage similar to Marx transformers and should
work. -- Jim Bray
The K-line #950 (20 watt) that came with sets until about two years ago, will NOT run a Marx 666.
Between the the weight of the die-cast locomotive and the smoke unit this engine just draws too
much wattage for such a small output transformer. The newer black or silver 100 watt or the yellow
120 watt K-line transformers will work fine but they are a bit more expensive. -- Bryan Robbins
Marx Railroad and Village Construction Set:
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The Marx Railroad and Village Construction Set was made around 1950 by Jaymar, 220 Fifth Ave.
New York, NY. (John "slipswitch")
Jaymar was founded by James Marx, Louis's brother. The company produced paper lithographed items. (Walt Hiteshew)
The 1955 Montgomery Wards Christmas catalog offered the village as part of a
"Smoking" Mechanical Freight Train Set with Cardboard Village". The set included a mechanical,
smoking 400 or 490 locomotive, plastic 4-wheel NYC tender, #59 UP stock car, #19847 black Sinclair
tank car, #20102 NYC caboose.
It was included with many 4-wheel plastic sets. (Bryan Robbins)
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